Final reflections and the all important stats

Our journey back from Thurso to Axbridge went like clockwork. I had booked 3 of the 4 precious cycle spaces on the 08.34 train to Inverness.We then dropped our bikes off at the bike courier service in Inverness, got a bus out to the airport and flew Easyjet back to Bristol where Diane Lukins was waiting to take us home.

http://www.johnogroatsbiketransport.co.uk/

On the 4 hour train journey we were able to reflect on the highlights of the trip, so here they are:

1. Best Hotel : Wrightington Spa Hotel, Wigan

2. Best B&B : The Pentland Lodge House, Thurso - a close call as they were all good but Lisa's customer care skills and "nothing is too much trouble attitude" stole the show.

3. Best cafe : Moniaive cafe and bistro - Day 6.

4. Best Evening Meal : Wrightington Spa Hotel/the Bistro in Thurso and Ollys home made Venison Bolognese.

5. Best Days riding : Wrighton to Carlisle via the Lake District (Phil), Ballachulish to Sittenham (Chris and Mike).

6. Hardest Climbs : Cul Na Kirk (Day 8), Yogi Hill Climb, Dartmoor (Day 1), Bogoullie Climb -Arran (Day 7).

7. Worst moment of the Tour : Tavistock (Mike), China Clay Area Cornwall (Chris), Alness (Phil).

8. Defining moment of the Tour- Whisky tasting session at the Oban Whisky and Fine Wines Shop (we now feature on their facebook page!).

We all had songs floating around in our heads whilst cycling. Mine were I'm Gonna Be (500 miles) - The Proclaimers and News from Heaven - Runrig.

We had no mechanical problems and not one puncture between us which was quite remarkable. I took spare spokes, a spare tyre, 3 inner tubes and some spare chain links and a multi tool but these were not used.

Generally motorists were very kind to us particularly in Scotland (apart from coach drivers and timber lorries) and we didn't get the brunt of any road rage to cyclists which is often a feature in Somerset.

And now to the stats. - our 3 garmin cycle computers and 2 i phones told very different stories particularly the height ascended. Phil took some different routes to Chris and I so I have set out below his and my recordings

Thanks must go to everyone who helped us on the route, get us to the start line and who kindly sponsored me - my current total is over £2,500 for the Nepal Earthquake and Weston Hospice which I am absolutely bowled over with - originally I had no plans to get any sponsorship.

Final mention and special thanks must be given to our long suffering and supportive wives - Trina, Diane and Sue.

"When I see an adult on a bicycle I do not despair for the future of the human race" HG Wells

 (thanks to Mendip Rouler's excellent blog for that quote)

http://mendiprouleur.blogspot.co.uk/

Day 9 : Sittenham (near Alness) to John O'Groats and onto Thurso - 118 miles, 5,500 ft of ascent

Ollie and Brian our hosts at Greenacres, cooked us an excellent breakfast. Yet another stay where we were treated so well.

http://www.greenacre2002.com/

We cut across country on minor roads to Tain to join the A9. Chris realised he had left his bottles behind at the B&B.An hour later Ollie and Brian had them back with him after driving after us to near Golspie - that's "going the extra mile!

The Coffee Bothy at Golspie served up a Malteser cake which seemed to give us renewed energy, so much so that for the first time in over 900 miles the three of us rode together for the next 15 miles.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Coffee-Bothy/186246894768198

The Berridale Braes was where it all fell apart - a brute of a hill where Chris and Phil pulled away from me.

The gorse was in flower, matching the colour of my panniers and brightening up a barren and wild landscape.

Next stop was a late lunch at the Bay Owl at Dunbeath. A chance to get out of the biting North Westerly wind and warm up. Baked potatoes more reasonably priced here.

http://www.thebayowl.net/

Badbea clearance village was a poignant reminder of how this landscape changed with the Highland clearances and the devastation it caused to the highlanders. Crofters were evicted from their villages in the glens by the landlords to make way for more profitable sheep farming and were forced either to scrape a living on the sea shore, as at Badbea, or emigrate to Canada.

Wick's town centre has been gutted by the two retail parks at either ends of the town. Morag's Victoria Sponge was the driest piece of cake of the whole trip but still every crumb got eaten.

The last 17 miles to John O'Groats was into the teeth of the wind. The viewpoint from Warth hill was for me my abiding last day memory and the best end to the ride. Before us was the northern coast, the island of  Hoy and its tremendous sea stack of the Old Man and the Islands of Storma and Orkney.

Chris and I waited for Phil (another first!) and we free wheeled down to John O'Groats together- a real dive of a place and an anti climax. Both Lands End and John O'Groats could do with a makeover. Even the chips were lousy.

We posed for photographs by the sign and texted family and friends.

We had come to the end of an amazing journey through this wonderful country of ours so rich in history, culture and varied landscapes.

We now had the small job of getting to our accommodation in Thurso - a mere 20 mile ride along the North coast. Any plans of cycling out to Dunnet Head,the most northerly point in the mainland of Britain were soon abandoned as we struggled with the wind.

Lisa at the Pentland Lodge was a diamond. She gave us all separate rooms even though we had only booked two, phoned the local bistro, booked us a table, ordered us steaks, took our washing and had it dry for the next morning.

http://www.pentlandlodgehouse.co.uk/

The bistro did us proud. Phil ordered champagne and the meal was soaked down with a passable bottle of Merlot. Three double Malts at the Commercial completed a great evening.

Day 8 : Ballachulish to Sittenham (near Alness)- 100 miles, 5013 ft of ascent

Scotland in June can either be very hot (last week apparently) or almost like winter. Today it was the latter. It didn't get much above 8 degrees centigrade and for the first part of the day there was light rain and the mountains were shrouded in mist with snow on the tops. But hey the light wind was behind us and helped us along.

We sent Phil up Glen Coe to put in some extra miles and climb to wear off some excess energy and to enable Chris and  I to get a head start. In the end we arrived well over an hour and a half ahead of him at the B&B so perhaps the handicap was too great?

A good nights sleep makes all the difference. I felt strong today and the miles clicked by relatively easily.

The first half of the route were on roads I know very well from frequent trips to Scotland  when I was climbing the Munros with my brother in the 1980s and 1990s.

Fort William came and went and the first stop was the former Little Chef café at Spean Bridge now an independent.café and selling good quality coffee. I always remember Little Chef coffee and tea as being pretty grim.

https://www.facebook.com/BridgeCafeSpeanBridge

We stopped at the commando memorial for a quick photo but no views today of Ben Nevis

Cycling through the Great Glen from west to east felt strangely like it was predominantly down hill. The Caledonian Canal is an impressive piece of engineering linking the various lochs. It was  designed  by another of my heroes Thomas Telford. But even he couldn't bring it in on budget nor fulfil its original objectives. It was meant to cost £474,000 and ended up costing £975,000 . It was supposed to provide employment for the Highlanders ( the English having a guilt complex after inflicting so much devastation with the Highland clearances) but it ended up being built by Irish labour.

Fort Augustus is a pretty village and Urquhart Castle sitting by Loch Nevis played a role in the wars of the Scottish independence in the 14th century. I wonder whether there are plans for a new role for it shortly?

There were no sightings of Nessie today just the monsters in my head of  the possibility of being clipped by a dreaded wood carrying lorry or coach  which were in abundance.

We stopped at Drumnadrochit (great name) for a late lunch. A baked potato, baked beans and cheese (my tour favourite) coming in at an expensive £6.75 compared with £4.50 in Market Drayton. Clearly the impact of the potato famine is still being felt in Scotland.

Then came a huge hill, Cul na Kirk which topped out at 20% and was 8% average. Polka dot shirt Chris powered his way up leaving me to struggle not to get off and push.

We were now out of the Highlands and the landscape was much more fertile and prosperous. It even felt a bit warmer. Beauly was an attractive village with some well designed new housing.

We hit Inverness commuter traffic on the A9 so quickly got off it onto a quieter parallel road. One more climb ensued to our overnight stay at Sittenham a tiny hamlet above Alness.

So one more day to go to John O Groats. Bill Leason a good friend from Glossop texted me this evening warning me of the dire consequences of raising my arms in victory on the finishing line. Lizzie Armistead did it yesterday on  the finishing line of the Women's tour and hit a spectator and hurt herself badly. Mind you there is still another 100 miles to ride first- must remember the old cliche -  one stage at a time!

Day 7 : Brodick to Ballachullish - 110 miles, 6,500 ft of ascent

The great thing about this tour is that it is joining up the dots of so many of the places I have visited in the past. The last time I was on Arran was back in 1976 on a first year Uni Geology field trip. It doesn't seemed to have changed much. Big skies, open landscapes and rich in flora and fauna.

We had a great breakfast at the Glenartney guest house ( highly recommended) with award winning black pudding.

http://www.glenartney-arran.co.uk/

Our first 14 miles took us round the North East corner of the island with the biggest climb of the day up Glenartney. With a very strong westerly wind and driving rain it was a tricky climb and even harder descent.

We only just made the 10.45 Lochranza to Claonaig ferry. A large caravan and proud and large owner seemed to occupy most of the ferry.

We disembarked at 11.15 and still had the prospect of 96 miles left to do. Coffee was at Tarbert, a busy touristy and fishing village on the shores of Loch Fyne.

From then on it was head down for 54 miles to Oban- a delightful ride along the shores of  Loch Fyne,  Loch Craignish and Melfort with some tough connecting climbs. Traffic was light and the road surfaces generally good (unlike yesterday).

Phil was ensconced in the Oban Whisky and Fine wines shop on his second tasting session when I arrived and Chris was being educated in the joys of Whisky. They both decided to accompany me in yet another tasting. By the time we had got up from their comfy chairs by a real fire we were in desperate need of food. A chippy delivered the goods.

https://www.facebook.com/obanwhisky

The last 38 miles was hard work but I was given an uplift  when Phil texted to say that he had secured 3 rooms at the Ballachulish Hotel at reasonable rates. This meant that we could save 5 miles each way up to Glen Coe Youth Hostel where we had originally booked. The last 10 miles past quickly and Phil greeted me in reception with the news that dinner was ordered and on its way.

http://www.ballachulish-hotel.co.uk/

Day 6 : Wetheral to Ardrossan - 121 miles, 5042 ft if climb

Today was the longest day in mileage and there was the added pressure of having to make the last ferry across to the Isle of Arran which boarded at 7 pm.  An early start was called for.

After a comfortable night at the Crown Hotel and another excellent breakfast I was away by 7.40am ahead of Chris and Phil who I knew would be faster than me.

My Garmin successfully navigated me through Carlisle and out onto the Gretna road. The border was reached and I thought I saw Nicola Sturgeon waving to me or maybe I was just in the zone?

The landscape bordering the Solway Firth is flat and uninspiring but the miles pass quickly. The Peloton roared past me after 34 miles.

Dumfries was dismal and didn't warrant a stop. The first climb of the day was met on the delightful B729 after Dunscore - one of those long drags requiring a low gear. We stopped at the Moniaive cafe and bistro just after 50 miles for a late coffee/early lunch break. The comfy sofas were difficult to get out of.

https://www.facebook.com/glenwhiskcafeandbistro

The next part of the ride was the best so far, a beautiful stretch of road-single track, little traffic and lovely views across to some nice looking hills (message to self - worth coming back to do some further exploring of the Cairnsmore hills). A buzzard over head eyed me up as I went past his territory.

Hitting the A713  I felt the strongest so far on this tour and pushed on hard to Ayr where Chris and Phil had encamped at Cafe 51.

https://www.facebook.com/Cafe51Ayr

For the final 24 miles up the Ayrshire coast to Ardrossan we followed Sustrans route 7 past the Royal  golf course at Troon and onto Irvine. Following cycle paths aren't conducive for fast cycling  -not Pinnington friendly!

We missed the 6pm ferry to Brodick on Arran which Phil caught but were in plenty of time for the last Cal Mac ferry of the evening.

Phil had sussed out an excellent place to eat, the Brodick bar, which served us very well indeed, including a 10, 12 and 14 year old Arran Whisky. Unfortunately farmer Chris doesn't get Whisky, describing it as well fermented silage! Some education clearly needed. Maybe at the Oban distillery tomorrow he can learn?

http://brodickbar.co.uk/

Day 5 : Wrightington to Wetheral 104 miles, 4,500 ft of climb.

Walking through the reception area of the four star Wrightington Spa Hotel on a Monday morning, pushing our bikes in our cycling gear,  clicking the marble floor with our cleats,  seemed almost  "Pythonesque" as we passed the young executives getting into awaiting smart cars for no doubt important meetings.

Before we could finally escape the North West conurbation we had no choice but to go through Preston. Fortunately the task was made a lot easier as the town is well endowed with cycle lanes, although sometimes they leave you high and dry in 3 lanes of traffic.

Passing Deepdale, home of Preston North End was pretty gutting for me. Outside the ground was a sign boldly proclaiming that next season they would be playing in the Championship. To get there they beat my team Swindon Town in the play off final!

Garstang was our first stop for coffee. A sign states that the town was the first fair trade town in England.But the coffee we drunk was definitely not fair trade coffee! A lovely lady came up to us and asked what charity we were riding for. When I explained she got out her purse and gave me a donation.

We continued on up the A6 to Lancaster. Phil put his foot on the gas (pedals) and disappeared into the Lancashire morning sun. He took the " Day " alternative route into the Lakes - Kirkstone pass, Ullswater and Penrith which he thoroughly enjoyed.

Lancaster is a fine, proud Northern town. The A6 is decorated with flower beds and cherry trees which makes a fine entrance. There is much new development going on tastefully designed to blend in with the Victorian vernacular architecture. Its two related  failings are its one way system and traffic jams.

Chris found this out to his peril as he managed 3 laps of the one way system. A fourth lap and he would have been well on the way to breaking Bradley Wiggins hour record. It did mean I was able to catch him up. Going out of town past a fine new bridge across the river we noted help was at hand for the town - a new relief toad is being built.

Lunch was at Mildenthorpe -50 miles into the  ride.. We met up with Chris's mate, Simon Clark, who owns the great business of Taunton Leisure. He was up on business visiting his suppliers.

It was great to get off the A6 and take the back roads to Kendall -thick grass literally growing in the middle of the road.

From Kendall we took the A6 up to Shap summit - 1245ft- the highest point of the ride so far.

We saw Simon again at Clifton - scene of the last battle on English soil in 1745 - presumably against the Scots, quashing bonnie Prince Charlie?

MacDonald's was all we could fine open in Penrith for late afternoon tea.

The final stretch of the A6 to near Carlisle is a Roman road. What have the Romans ever done for cyclists? Certainly their roads are monotonous to ride along. The Crown at Weatheral was reached at 7.10pm - another hard day. A hot bath was a welcome reward.

http://www.crownhotelwetheral.co.uk/

England traversed - now for 4 days in Scotland.

Day 4 : Ludlow to Wrightington, Wigan 118 miles

Jane our host at the Queens Ludlow provided us with bacon butties and boiled eggs for breakfast. A great start for a long ride. Our self catering accommodation had worked out well and is highly recommended.
www.thequeensludlow.com

The sun was shining and the wind was at last from the South West. Once again Chris and I stuck to our planned route and Phil did his own thing.

The views in all directions from Wenlock Edge were stunning. Brown Clee Hill, Titterstone Clee, Caer Caradoc, the Lawley., the Breidon hills, the Long Mynd and the Wrekin were easily picked out and brought back memories of Shropshire fell races.

Alfred Houseman's a Shropshire Lad was ringing in my ears :

On Wenlock Edge the wood's in trouble

His forest fleece the Wrekin heaves;

The gale, it piles the Saplings double

And thick on Severn snow the leaves

But after crossing the river Severn and proceeding North to Market Drayton the ride somewhat deteriorated as we hit Cheshire. The state of the roads were awful and the scenery was flat and uninspiring.

We met up with Phil at Market Drayton and enjoyed an excellent lunch at a Cafe in the centre of the town.

Our journey to Wigan took us via Nantwich and Knutsford where we stopped for an expensive cup of tea and cake. We crossed the Manchester Ship Canal by a spectacular bridge and headed onto Wigan. Although it isn't now as George Orwell described it in "The road to Wigan Pier " it still has a depressed feel about it.

The Wrightington Hotel, organised by Phil was a lovely bit of luxury to reward us for a tough day. We arrived at nearly 19.30 and my body was feeling very stiff and battered. But after 4 days riding we are now a long way from Lands End and the Lake District and Scotland beckons us

http://www.wrightingtonhotel.co.uk/spa/

Day 3 : Axbridge to Ludlow

Leaving Axbridge and home comforts took some effort but by 8.55am I was on my way. A fine rain, humid and claggy is best described as Mizzle.

Phil caught us up on the bypass- his planned ride up Cheddar Gorge hadn't materialised due to a heavy evening which ended up in the Crown. In fact up until the Avon bridge he was positively subdued, happy to ride behind Chris and I.

We wended our way through Shirehampton and Avonmouth on the Sustrans cycle way and made it to Aust services for coffee. Crossing the Severn bridge was hard work riding into the wind.

The highlight of the day was the lovely ride up the Wye valley past Tintern Abbey. Lunch was at Monmouth and afternoon tea at Hereford. We sent Phil off to look at the Mappa Mundi and the Magna Carta in Hereford Cathedral so enabling Chris and I to get ahead through Leominster and onto Ludlow.

Dinmoor Hill brought back unpleasant memories of my last speeding fine. Today, though we weren't doing more than 50 mph!

Ludlow is one of my favourite towns in the UK. My social geographer hero, W.G.Hoskins, eloquently describes it in his book about the development of the English market town. It has been a few years since my last visit - great to be back!

Day 3 Route

 Crossing the Severn Bridge

 Tintern Abbey

Day 2 : Two Bridges to Axbridge, 91 miles 4397 ft of climb

A good nights sleep and and an excellent breakfast makes all the difference. The sun was shining as we left Cherrybrook , it was pleasantly warm and  the wind had dropped. We enjoyed a lovely ride across the top of Dartmoor to Exeter via Moretonhampstead. Even the climb out of Moretonhampstead didn't seem as bad as when I last did it. The dappled sunlight shining through the woods on the sweeping descent to Dunsford was the highlight of the morning.

Phil pressed on ahead and scouted out an excellent café (the plant café) on the Cathedral Green in Exeter.

https://www.facebook.com/theplantcafe

We made good time on the B3161 through Broadclyst, Cullompton and Willand. Chris and I stuck to our original planned route through Uffculme, Nicholshayne and up to Wellington whilst Phil stuck to A38.

A late lunch in Wellington and we said goodbye to Phil who decided to stick to the A38. Chris and I took it in turns on the front, stopping for a quick site visit at one of my new housing developments at Kings College, Taunton, before cutting across to Stoke St Mary, North Curry, Burrowbridge, Shapwick, Wedmore, Cheddar and home to Axbridge. All on roads we know very well,

Sally Cantwell provided a great sports massage and an evening meal with the family refuelled my body - I've already lost 5lbs since I started! Leaving Axbridge tomorrow morning could be more difficult.

Day 1 :Land's End to Two Bridges, Dartmoor - 102.6 miles 8,572 ft of climb

We always knew that Day 1 would be a very tough day. What we hadn't factored in was the Cyclist's worst enemy - a strong headwind. After all, the prevailing winds are supposed to come from the south west- one of our reasons for doing the route south to north. But today the wind blew hard from the east. Climbing up onto Dartmoor from Tavistock in the evening it meant that even the short downhill bits were hard work.

After a comfortable night at Land's End Youth  Hostel at St Just and a good value breakfast we drove down to Lands End . Sue acting as "Dave Braislford" helped sort out our kit and bikes before departing back to Weston to go to work. After the obligatory photos by the famous sign we were on our way at 08.45.

Phil having bought very little kit stopped at Penzance to buy flip flops and then again just outside Truro for a base layer and jacket. In fact Chris and I saw very little of Phil all day meeting up for coffee mid morning at Leedstown, Roche and then at Tavistock for chips and tea. Having only  a small scale map, but wanting to forge ahead, he ended up going off the planned route and doing his own route mainly on A roads.

Our planned lunch tine stop didn't materialise  because in the bleak china clay area between St Stephen and Roche there was nothing open. We ended up eating a sandwich in a Co-op in Roche sheltering from a heavy downpour and getting some annoying looks from the locals.

Moving eastwards the climbs got harder and more frequent. The climb out of Lanhydrock was particularly steep as was the climb out of Gunnislake. By Tavistock I was shattered but a reviving plate of chips and plenty of tea gave me the energy boost I needed to climb up onto Dartmoor and an evening meal at the Plume and Feathers in Princetown.

We reached our accommodation (the Cherrybrook) just outside Two Bridges just after 10pm. David Martin our host made us very welcome. They had a great drying room facility and we were able to put our bikes in his garage.

Showers and bed were the order of the day!

http://www.thecherrybrook.co.uk/index.html

The Team

My travelling companions are Chris Lukins and Phil Pinnington who both live in Axbridge.

I have done a lot of cycling with Chris this last year. He is very strong up the hills and from the rear, which is mostly my view of him, he appears to be effortless. Chris is a lovely, easy going guy, always full of praise and very appreciative of the good things in life. He is a great companion.

Phil is the ultimate " can do" person full of energy and the life and soul of the party. He can unlock problems with ease.  He is doing the ride just before his 50th birthday so almost 9 years younger than me and a bit younger than Chris. His youthful looks make him seem a lot younger. He has certainly put in the training and will travel light and fast. Providing he doesn't t go off too fast and we can keep up with him, we hope to be sitting on his back wheel  for most of the journey!

Chris Lukins applying the illegal sun cream!               My most common view of Chris

Phil doing another deal with the Germans!

Phil powering his way up Wavering Down